Friday, April 30

Bits and pieces

Seacom, the owner of the new subsea glassfibre cable, is doing maintenance. As a result we have no internet for a week, so I have no idea when I will be able to post this. Still life goes on even without the internet! Maybe it’s good to be off line every once in a while.

Daniel spent the last week in Nairobi at a Regional Managers’ conference. He set off on Sunday to Dar to catch his flight to Nairobi, but just an hour outside Dar he was told it wasn’t worth going because the guys from Europe couldn’t make it because of the volcano. So he ended up turning round and coming back. He went again on Wednesday morning, when flights started again in Europe. He was supposed to return on Sunday but texted me to say that he was too sick to make his flight and was staying in Nairobi another day. He eventually made it back on Monday night. We had a nice time whilst he was away, (we have a nicer time when he is here!!) going out to people’s houses and having people over. Mirjam’s (next door) husband was away in the Congo and Julie Anne’s (other compound)husband was in South Africa so we did lots of things together and the kids had a great time.

Monday there was a small earthquake and Tuesday Caleb woke up with his eye completely swollen shut. We think it was an insect bite, but who knows, anyway he is looking better now. Today next door have just chopped the head off the rooster, he was making too much noise so will now be dinner. The kids loved it and are now running round with a rooster head and feet-again!!!

The internet is back up now, so we can get online again, although it is very slow and we are having some problems. Still I wil try and post this so you know we are still here.

Saturday, April 17

Guest Blog Easter 2010

At Libby's suggestion for this trip to Tanzania, we flew with KLM (wise move as it turned out) to Kilimanjaro International Airport and two days later, after staying with friends in Moshi, flew down to Dodoma on the MAF, Arusha / Dodoma shuttle, which diverted to KIA to pick us up. This 12 seater plane saves a lot of time for the people, who use it, picking up and dropping off on request, at available airstrips en route, including Haydom Hospital. The rural runways are grassy strips, which have to be maintained by the local people and look more like fields to the uninitiated. On our return journey, the pilot flew over one airstrip first, so we were told, to check for cows, before he landed.

Transferring from a big plane to a small one is always an interesting experience, but I love seeing the ground below, the patchwork of red soil and green growth, following heavy rains, riverbeds like roots, stretching into the distance, road networks, villages etc. It's an amazing way to see the countryside and we appreciated the expertise and the courtesy of the pilots, who flew us.
We were only in Dodoma for a couple of days, before we were off again to spend Easter at Fox Farm in Mufindi, in the Southern Highlands amidst the Unilever tea plantations. As we opted for the tarmac route, it took two days, including one night in a campsite, just outside Iringa; it was like doing two sides of a triangle. The alternative shorter side was the off-road route, which might not have been a pleasant experience for vehicle or passengers. As it was, the off-road stretch to Fox Farm was dire, having been ruined by heavy lorries, during the rainy season.
At least our longer route meant we could drive through Mikumi and experience a mini safari. Had we turned off the main road, we would have had to pay for 24 hour permits at £20 an adult and £10 a child (locals get it cheaper) but driving through on the Mbeya Road is free.

We'd travelled in two off-road vehicles to Fox Farm, ourselves Daniel, Libby and family, plus friends of theirs with a small daughter. Our accommodation was in three cabins/lodges, of which there are ten altogether, with a central lodge, where meals are served in the dining room and a lounge upstairs. At 6,ooo feet, it's much cooler than Dodoma, but still pleasantly warm to us, if a bit chilly early in the morning to those who're used to temperatures of 30 degrees or more.

A visit to a nearby orphanage run by a young American couple and catering for 36 children in three single storey houses currently, highlighted the problem of aids in the area and a missing generation of parents to care for them. These children are being taught local village ways, how to work on the land, do their own washing, cook etc.,. A local housemother is responsible for 12 children in each house and those, who are old enough walk one and a half hours to school and back. A number of grannies are also helped. They learn to weave baskets, which are then sold thus providing money to employ someone to work their land for them. The owners of Fox Farm helped get this project off the ground, when it became apparent that teenagers, too young to employ were left looking after even younger siblings, after their parents died, with no possible source of income.

Libby's already mentioned the activities available at Fox Farm and the children just loved the freedom to go wherever they liked. It's a very beautiful location, with expanses of farmland and lakes, but also beautifully landscaped areas nearer the main lodge with plantings of flowers, we tend only to see in small sizes and as house plants e.g. poinsettia bushes.

On Easter Sunday, after a picnic dinner on the croquet lawn, there was an Easter egg hunt for the children staying at Fox Farm and the orphans. There weren't actually any eggs, because it was too hot for chocolate, but sticky toffee bars were an acceptable substitute, as far as the children were concerned; it was great fun.
All too soon it was time to do the return journey. This time we found a less bumpy route to get us to the main road and as Libby has said already, it was straight on to Iringa (where we camped again), stay on the same road to Morogoro and turn left onto the road to Dodoma.

The rest of our holiday was spent in Dodoma, where it was good to see folk we'd met on previous trips to Tanzania. A trip to the Travel Cafe was mandatory for Roy, who hadn't had the experience of a cappuccino at the only place in Dodoma, where you can buy one, as also was the trip to the Pizzeria for lunch on our last day. These two establishments provide a welcome diversion for ex-pats as they only opened in the last eighteen months and there aren't many places like that to visit.
We returned the way we'd come via a MAF plane to Kilimanjaro, spending a few more hours in Moshi, whilst we waited for our night flight to Amsterdam (via Dar) and on to London, arriving home on Tuesday 13th April. Two days later a volcano in Iceland erupted.......

Guest blog #6: Katie Jones

We've (Libby's parents) just returned from probably our last trip to Dodoma, before Libby and Daniel relocate to Kenya. These are some observations I (K) made whilst we were visiting, but hearing about Focus's house falling down set about a train of thought of houses generally.

The people, who work for MAF in Dodoma, unless renting off site, live in single storey, properly constructed, houses, built some time ago, plastered inside and out and with corrugated iron roofs (currently painted blue) Inside they have coloured concrete floors, fitted wardrobes and kitchen cupboards and except for what bits of furniture were brought from their home countries, the houses are generally furnished from a MAF central store of locally made wooden furniture, which gets used over and over again, as families come and go. It's not expensive (by Western standards) to get curtains and cushion covers made and families are adept at personalising their houses. Good concrete foundations limit termite damage, mosquito mesh on the windows, in theory keeps out insects; and burglar bars, anyone who might try to break in; the inner part of the windows is louvred glass.

By UK standards these houses would be very modest, the bathrooms and showers in need of replacing/updating, to sort out inadequate water pressure particularly and the general effect is very basic, but adequate. Each house has running water (not drinking water) and there is electricity. (There are really posh houses in Dodoma, but these belong to wealthy Tanzanians, not people who work for NGOs)
To the average inhabitants of Dodoma these houses would be very desirable, because they themselves don't have such luxuries as running water, bathrooms, kitchens and electricity. Their houses are often built of mud bricks, corrugated iron roofs and earth or concrete floors and may or may not have windows; it depends on how much you can afford. The outside toilet, is often a hole in the ground, with an outside “shower” room. Cooking is done on a small charcoal burner and in the more rural suburbs, rats and snakes are a problem, as well as malarial carrying mosquitos. Some people have a stand pipe where they can get water for washing, but water for drinking needs either to be bought or be purified first. Other people like Focus in Libby's blog, have to walk some distance to get water of any kind.
The biblical story of the wise man, who built his house upon the rock, whose house withstood the heavy rains, which inevitably came, and the foolish man, who built his house upon the sand, which collapsed in the same storm, brings to mind Focus's plight. On a practical level, Focus is a very diligent young man, hard working and determined to improve his lot. The fact that his house didn't have a good foundation is partly the extra cost that would have entailed and also his lack of knowledge of house building, because he was doing it himself. Apparently mud bricks on a concrete foundation and plastered inside and out, will last for years, but without a proper foundation, water gets in underneath and undermines the structure during the heavy rains of the rainy season. When we went to visit his home just before returning to the UK, we were impressed that he'd built the temporary “house” out of the roof sheets and although very happy to have help, wasn't assuming he should get it. He is someone it would be worth while helping.

We also had occasion to visit a house being rented by friends of Libby and Daniel, who have relocated to their home country sooner than expected, but need the house to be packed up. Superficially it's much smarter than the MAF houses, but a closer look reveals very poor workmanship, ill-fitting cupboards and drawers, uneven floors, switches at strange angles, not aesthetically pleasing at all. It wouldn't pass muster in the UK or health and safety for that matter, but as Libby remarked, those who did the work might be living in mud brick houses like those mentioned above and thinking this house was much superior to their own, and would wonder what all the fuss was about. Maybe we're too perfectionist, but I suspect it's more than that, because true workmen, whatever their nationality, take a pride in their work and maybe it was unskilled labour that was used.

Focus

 

Compound B helped Focus to by a piece of land last year. He then got a postal bank loan (19% interest)and built a 3 roomed mud house. Then the rain came and the house fell down. Now he is left with a loan that will take him 3 years to pay back. For now he has re-built the house out of roofing materials. It has no windows and is very hot in the daytime and very cold at night. It also lets in a lot of snakes, which is not great when you have a toddler! Anyway we would like to help him build a basic house with a good foundation before the next rainy season.
Posted by Picasa

Focus

 

The next plan (Yes we are running out of time)is to try and help our guard Focus with his house.
Posted by Picasa

Sarah's house

 

This is inside one of the rooms. It is fairly basic, but OK by Tanzanian standards. It also has electricity and so they can rent each room for 25,000Tsh (£12.50)a month plus money for water and electricity. That means that they will get 75,000Tsh a month which is a good monthly wage. They all seemed to be doing well and I will feel happy to leave knowing that they are OK and have some way to earn money. The good thing about the rooms is that they are all separate from the main house, so the lodgers won't need to go into the main house at all.
Posted by Picasa

Sarah's House

 

Today we went to visit Sarah's house where Elizabeti's husband is busy building. When it is all finished Sarah's children will have 3 rooms to rent out which will give them a good monthly income.
Posted by Picasa

Chickens

 

Mirjam next door got some new chickens this week. Caleb was all too happy to hold them before they went into the chicken pen.
Posted by Picasa

Wednesday, April 7

Fox Farm

 
Posted by Picasa

Fox Farm

 

This is more like Wales or Scotland!
Posted by Picasa

Fox Farm

 

Yes it looks like Switerland but it is in Tanzania! It is beautifully cool and green and a lovely change from Dodoma.
Posted by Picasa

Journey to Fox Farm

 

This is just a few kilometres away from Fox Farm. The small group of houses are workers houses.
Posted by Picasa

Journey to Fox Farm-road to Mufindi

 

We camped over night outside Iringa and then carried on the next day up into the tea plantations. This is tea growing.
Posted by Picasa

Journey to Fox Farm-The Iringa road

 

Puking children were not the only casualties, this truck driver was not having a good day either!
Posted by Picasa

Journey to Fox Farm-the Iringa road

 

Once we started climbing into the hills, the road got very windy. We had a few casualties on the way and more on the way back. Caleb and Bethany threw up at least once each all over the back seat.
Posted by Picasa

Journey to Fox Farm-the Iringa road

 
Posted by Picasa

Journey to Fox Farm-the Iringa road

 

The Iringa road takes you through Mikumi National Park, which is always fun for spotting wildlife.
Posted by Picasa

Journey to Fox Farm-the Dar road

 

We have spent the last few days in the Southern higlands of Tanzania. Here are a few photos of our journey there. This picture was taken on the Dar road. (There aren't that many roads in Tanzania, so they are mostly named after the place that they are headed, e.g. Dar road, Arusha road etc..) The directions for the journey were very simple, drive straight on the Dar road for 3 hours and then turn right. Continue on this road until you reach the campsite on your left. (We camped over night on the way because it was so far). Simple instructions, but it took us 10 hours to reach the campsite!!
Posted by Picasa